Another big loss for the fashion industry! Model/Actress/Agent/Caterer/Chef, Dorian Leigh passed away on Friday at the age of 91. Now she's home with Suzy!

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Yves Saint Laurent (1936-2008)

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With a new kid at home, I have not been up to date as I would like. So for now Turlie.com is on vacation till further notice. Check back soon.

Best Wishes Brian

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Alexander McQueen opened his new store on Melrose in L.A. Here is a shot of the GOD and his store for your pleasure.

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Of coarse color at Rykiel, this season the key is leopard fur and bold plaids and prints on knits. Rykiel does embrace this season fur trend, both faux and real but her shinning trend moment are the knit pieces through out the collection. From matching knit jackets and sweaters to full length knit trench coat. Another strong statement at Rykiel is a new suit for the Rykiel customer, a loose cut but still classic silhouette. The suits take inspiration from great english tailors. The suits are mostly done in a silk/wool blend fabric but the highlight are the plaid wool blazers done in several tones. The only miss in the knits are the pants. On of the hit trends seen in Paris and Milan are layered knit pieces, which Rykiel showed in several looks. One of my favorite pieces in the collection is the green wool overcoat done in a heathered green wool fabric. The cheetah print stripe sweaters are both the perfect editorial and retail pieces while the cheetah fur driving jacket is more editorial. Another great retail piece is Rykiel’s high collar trench coats done in black synthetic or purple wool.

View complete collection at Wireimage.com

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Doma embraces this season key trends of oversized coats and biker jackets right at the start of the collection. The color palette is simple, black, black and black. I did giggle a little at the Chanel quilted leather jackets but the pants were just a little too much. Doma did show a few windsor check pieces but he also used a lot of velvet. While there has been advanced in fabrication of lighter weight velvets, the overall look of velvet is too heavy. Doma only showed a handful of knit pieces this season instead opted for kitschy prints like polka dots. A highlight of the collection was the knit sweaters worn over a high collar trench coat. Doma also gave us a lot of full leg and baggy pants for Fall/Winter. While the silhouette states otherwise there was a hint of Dior Homme in the collection along with Lagerfeld’s Chanel biker from the 90’s. Overall the collection is a dark collection with hints of color mainly in check wool pieces. The message is a blurred through out the collection, hopefully Doma can start to shift the focus to a more designed collection next season.

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John Richmond’s biker chic is more from the 70's than 60's or 80's. He focuses on a layered look this year, like layering blazers over leather bikers jackets. Richmond is riding on the whole Biker rise of Belstaff last season. Showing a lot of tight leather pants and even tight suit pants. One of the highlights of the collection is Richmond's homage to the beaded trend of the season detailing dinner jackets with beading on the lapels and pockets. The big misses of the collections was the overuse of the scarves and the white section which was too hip hop for Richmond. The strongest section was black section. Another strong trend from the collection is Richmond's geometric knits used through out the collection.

View complete collection at Wireimage.com

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Jean-Paul Gaultier’s collection Fall/Winter 08’ is Dark, really dark, with very little hint of color, when there is colors its done in bold stripes and plaids. Another inspiration from the collection is homage to the english countryside but a darker and more macab. While Gaultier’s number of leather pieces in the collection is very minimal his use of leather detailing is successfully rampant. The collection as a whole embraced black and dark shades of blue, burgundy and brown but he kept the color strict and confined in striped and plaid fabrics. One of the big misses from the collection was the pinstripe gangster style suits. But when it came to trends Gaultier really keeps to his guns and really only embraced the fur trend. The must have pieces from the collection are the short-sleeve dress shirts or the leather trimmed an detailed pants.

View complete collection at Wireimage.com

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For his first collection at the House of Ferre, Lars Nilsson presents something new and something old. Opting for a small show space to the big runway to make his homage to the late designer, impressions of the end result were mixed. Nilsson is seasoned player in the game of stepping in for needy fashion house. This season Nilsson plays with a lot of classic Ferre looks and pairs them with some modern day necessities. Like the classic Windsor check blazer paired with a pair of tight leather bike pants. Nilsson mixed looks with full leg and skinny leg pants. One of the big misses is some of the tailoring in the collection. The master was a legend in tailoring and modern tailoring was his signature. This season Nilsson lacked any modern tailoring through out the collection. One example is the double breasted jackets with lapel cut too short pulling the fabric when buttoned. This occurred both on the model and the mannequin. The collection overall did not cry Gianfranco Ferre, too many classic suits that Ferre would never have designed.

Update: I wrote this post about two weeks ago and the news on Friday, February 8th is that designer Lars Nilsson is stepping down from Ferre. I was rather kind in this review of the collection as I hate to be all negative. To be honest, I am not a big Nilsson fan, the man has connections but he’s really staff or team designer not an actual designer per-say. He butchered Bill Blass, Rochas and now Ferre. When is everyone going to get a clue. Sorry Lars!

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Suicide for Fur? But you have fur in the collection! Galliano embraced Jean-Paul Gaultier this season, touching on his Hasidic collection from the 90’s to modern day Gaultier with an emphasis of molding his own tailoring with Gaultier’s clear defined lines. Two words, FLUFFY MUFFY, enough said! Another theme in the collection is the destruction of the male figure throughout the collection and the centuries, by saying its a bloody war out there! The dark romantic tone of the collection is echoes throughout edwardian and venetian theme pieces with heavy beading and draping. Galliano’s splashes of beading on pants and jackets is in keeping with the glittery trend o the season. Another strong statement this season is the layering trend of the season from chunky knits to heavy jackets and coats. The only big misses this season are the period boots and the bloody models.

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Sneaker at Armani, who would have thought, I think Monsieur Armani has been spending to much time on his yacht. This season he seems to be moving away from the gentleman and embracing the hip-hop clientele. He even bows down to the big trends of the season, from the riding pants throughout the collection to the oversized jackets and coats. He does however keep his classic tailoring but experimenting with leather creating several strong leather trenches and coats. Another show stopper was the geometric knits that was straight out of the 80’s. Armani even went overboard with the whole oversized trend by adding oversized hats throughout the collection. The big miss, I just wish Monsieur Armani would just leave the velvet on the bolt for one season!

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She's crazy, she's kooky and she says she's got one ear down on the pavement listening to the youth of the world. To be honest, walk around on Paris today and you will see what will be on the runway of designers like Jacobs, Galliano and Ghesquière. To be honest, this season Westwood seemed to be borrowing from other legends like Gaultier and Armani. From the fine line suits to the boys in skirts and denim. Highlights from the collection is the abundance of classic Westwood plaids but only handful of her classic knits. There is a lot of stripe fabric through out the collection mainly used in the suit looks. There was a hint of the 40's and the military but the big miss of the collection were the saggy pants used in several looks. You never know what your going to get with Vivienne Westwood each season but the proof she's a legend is the fact she has been on the runways now for almost 40 years.

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For his first collection Massimillano Giornetti makes a big statement, he''s a follower not a leader. This season Giornetti hits all of the big trends of the season like riding pants, knits and shimmery fabrics. I will praise his use of beading and his ability to style a look. But the same suit in 20 different fabrics can get a little boring. Giornetti has the classic Ferragamo tailoring down but the accents and details of the suits is where he did shine. Sadly for Ferragamo customers the leather pieces were lacking. Maier was missed this season but there is some hope that Giornetti could continue to bring some strong freshness to the collection but he needs to be careful he does not loose those faithful customers who have been shopping at Ferragamo for over 60 years. Like my Grammie!

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The emphasis this season is combining nylon and leather in everything from jackets, pants and coats. For their second season the design team at Belstaff continue on with another strong collection. Trends that were embraced include the oversized jackets and pants and aviator bomber style biker jackets. One of my favorite pieces are the two-tone leather jackets mixed with wool fabrics. There were several hints of Raf Simons for Jil Sander in the collection but overall the motorcycle chi meets street chic style of the collection is what revs loud. Belstaff is getting better and better each season. I especially happy to see the design team embracing synthetic fabrics incorporated in the pants this season.

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Silvia Fendi has finally taken a page out of the Lagerfeld textbook and brought a new light into Fendi’s menswear line. Silvia is finally taken herself out of the typical Fendi box and hammered the sides into different angles. She took on tr